Well, this is inexcusable late, but in the interest of sharing some images and updating the storie, here goes...
Day Two: Cocker doodle doodle
Sara and Lisa get used to seconding together on one rope; no easy task when also learning all the other stuff
Top of the first section, with plenty more to go. Sara's crampon was about to fall off for the first time. How entertaining. Luckily, they made a good duo at fixing the problem. At one point Sara's uncramponed boot was given footholds by the careful placement of Lisa's axe!
Reaching the top of the last pitch.
This is the second dark descent I've ever had on a Rjukan route. Oh joy. Fortunately things worked out okay, although my good intentions to fetch the car for Lisa & Sara proved to be a bit unhelpful in the end - yup, there
is an alternative descent route, and it ends up in a very fenced off, no go area! Apparently, climbing fences all kitted up is good for technique.
Today we headed for Fabrikfossen. Despite an earlish start we made a descent in the dark. Still, the ropes pulled fine on every abseil and to team relief we only had to use one abolakov. The route was in superb condition and unusually quiet - just one team of two (Finnish I think and over for a long weekend). This proved to be the pattern for the week - very few Brits at all, and not many climbers all togther. The routes that were there were in excellent condition.
Sara and Lisa did excellently, learning to manage two to a rope and climbing pitch after pitch of fairly calf burning angle, and then a long descent. Great ice though, with things really warming up after the previous chilly one.
Day Three:
There's nothing like feeling it: constructing and whittling down abolokovs allowed Lisa & Sara to see how amazingly strong they are when built in good ice. Ours ended up about the diametre of my little finger. Lisa and Sara proved rediculously good at building these - fast and adept. It boded well for Lisa's happiness and our future descents!
The next day we went to the lovely Ozzimosis which are situated on the way up to the ski area. Once again, the ice was fat, very very fat. It was a great venue for the day as we were sheltered from the considerable winds that day. They both got to practise placing icescrews on steep ice and building abolakovs, and a lovely bit of steep climbing to finish off the muscles for the day.
Day Four: Yabber dabber doodle
Sara on the chockstone that was unthreadable at the time - which meant some great dry tooling moves on the outside.
Today we did the classic & beautiful route of Rjukanfossen, which is one of my favorite here. It's varied and spectacularly located at the very head of the valley in a huge bowl. It's worth checking out the waterfall on Youtube! Each pitch has a quite different feel to it and the view only improves as you go. Excellent angle on Lipton too, although only the first two fangs were out at the time.
Day Five:
Today, Sara and Lisa put together all their skills and each led a pitch up the vast fall to the left of the hair pins up to Gaustablikk. Both led very steadily and competently. I've never seen this fall looking in such good condition - it usually has sizeable holes. Once again, we had it to ourselves.
Lisa looking mega pro at the top of her pitch.
With a mere umpteen pitches to go we opted for reaffirming their escaping skills. In moments Sara (her image above too) had constructed the perfect V thread, and we were off (down, not 'off'!) and Lisa repeated the process.
Day Six: Ode to the Doodle
Sara's image: of Lisa disappearing up the first pitch. We chose the steepest and smoothest line all the way!
Sara's image: the very pretty upper reaches of the route
I couldn't resist a belay in the ice cave, although I think I might have been more excited by it than my companions were!
We decided to climb the stunning floodlit icfall above the centre of town. After the worst Rjukan walk in ever (my fault, ahem...I'd like to say I was missing Scottish walk ins, but that'd be a plain lie) we happily tottered up this 4 pitch WI4, tackling the steepest & smoothest line throughout.
Due to awesome abolakov construction, team ace & a desire to get home to Lisa's heavenly fish pie promises we got down rediculosuly swiftly. Four abs with three people in about an hour is not bad!
Day Seven: Doodledum & Doodledee
Sara nearing the top of the very steep pitch.
I was delighted to get a last shot at the ice which was in superb nick.
Before a rather whirlwind drying of kit, eating of more fish pie, packing and scuttling back to the airport, we had a last hack at the ice. Once again, in brilliant condition. There was more ice on Vermorkbrufoss Vest than I have ever seen, while her sister fall on the other side of the bridge was barely formed. Perhaps something to do with the reported water releases that have been recently reported by other climbers.
We weren't alone, and found a Nato team had rigged 3 bottom ropes across the fall, with all sorts of strangeness in the setups. Still, it didn't stop us climbing and there was certainly room for all of us. Sara did excellently given how consistent the steepness of this route is and that it was her first WI5. Always go to warm down huh!
Alladins Buttress looking quite black but the Ice on Direct was very good and Patey's was in fine, if lean, condition.
Alladins Mirror Direct
A fantastic view across to Shelter Stone and Carn Etchechan when the clouds cleared.
Hells Lum looked pretty uninspiring, although Deep Cut was climbed today.
A quick climb up Hells Lum, ice was very very good but the threat of The Chancer breaking off in the thawing temps didn't induce me to hang around for long and enjoy it!
Steep and quite worrying soft snow on the exit below the cornice; this will be in much better condition after tonights freeze.
