Compression Crack, Ben Nevis, 2nd January

On the 2nd we plodded our way up from the Torlundy carpark with the aim of climbing ice on Ben Nevis, committing to carrying just an ice screw rack (on the Ben, that means just a few nuts and hexes for belays). Of course, it's all changed conditions wise now, at least on the surface; but underneath the fresh snow is going to be a base of neve and ice.

There were a fair number of teams around, and plenty pouring up the path as we climbed our route. Compression Crack was by far the first biggest chunk of ice on the Ben. The top section wasn't a goer but there was an excellent entry pitch 150 metres or so to the left, beneath Centurion. The ice was great, mostly toffee texture and a little damp in places. We had a very exciting (entertaining for me) incident with a crampon that wasn't apparently so keen on climbing, but the thing to stress from that is - always thread your crampon strap through the lace of your boots, that way at least you won't lose it altogether! From the top of the steep section, we made two abseils into Castle Gully and one final one from an abolokov to the base.

Got a lift down the track (and up the track and down the track again, because for some reason in all my chattering haste, as soon as I started talking to  Robin I dumped my rucsack on the ground and there it magically remained) with Robin Clothier & Nick who'd been on Point Five.

 Looking up into Coire na Ciste, which was especially bare. Still, it's not as if it's all gone: from a sweep of ice on the Curtain right round to Point Five and a suggestion of Hadrian's, it's there alright.








Two climbers heading in to Number Two Gully, showing the Ben in quite a different light on the day.

Compression Crack** V,5, is the main flow of ice in this picture, left of centre. The central buttress the Castle with Castle Gully South and North lying on either side. The opening pitch we started up, because it looked the best, was to the left of this picture ascending almost directly beneath Centurion on Carn Dearg Butttress. On our descent we wandered down the snow gully that looks here as if it is directly below North Castle Gully

Is that utter belayer concentration or a man in need of a snack? 

Mmmm, what lovely ice.


Martin looking rightfully happy at the top of the top pitch.